The main directory listing page is not themeable. The html is created within the function directory_display_home_category(), which should be a theme_*() function.
Generally speaking, you seem to be using directory_display_*() wherever theme_*() should be used.
I will provide a patch early next week so that the display can be themed differently.
What I want to do, more specifically, is using nested lists instead of '--' for child terms. Also, I need to add some javascript to collapse some vocabularies and the child terms of each term.
Question: would you be interested in incorporating my proposed changes into your module or not? If not, I can do it within my own theme. If yes, I can open another issue with a patch including my changes.
Anyhow, each displayed element ought to be themeable. I'll provide a patch later, at least for that.
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beginner commented